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Be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling your frogs or any cage accessories.
Housing:
Even though these frogs are small, they enjoy a lot of room to move about, so a 29-gallon aquarium is a good starting tank. This tank is large enough to house 4 to 5 frogs. These frogs are mostly terrestrial with only a few species that venture into the trees at all. You can decorate the cage as much with live plants and such. This is a good idea because it helps to raise the overall humidity of the cage. A shallow water dish should also be provided. Even though these frogs don’t use standing water to lay their eggs in, they still use it in the mating process. Be sure that the water is only half as deep as the frogs are tall. The water should be changed daily if no filter is incorporated into the vivarium. A glass or plastic lid is a good choice because it will also help keep humidity up in the cage. Just be sure to drill some holes into it to ensure air circulation.
Since these frogs need high humidity, you cannot just put in ordinary reptile bedding. You should start off with a layer of rocks at the bottom of the cage with then a layer of potting soil so you can plant some plants in it. Be sure to have a way to drain excess water out of the bottom. If you have a cage with a hole already in the bottom this task becomes easy. Place sphagnum moss through the cage to help hold water for humidity.
Heat and Lighting:
These Frogs don’t require special lighting so a simple fluorescent light is sufficient enough to simulate a proper photoperiod along with keeping the vivarium plants alive. Temperature should range from 75-80 degrees during the day and down to 68 degrees at night. If you need to buy separate heating devices to achieve the right temperature use either under the tank heaters or ceramic heat emitters. Dart frogs dislike bright, harsh lights so a regular spot bulb wouldn’t do. Also be sure to not overheat the cage. You may use at least two thermometers in the cage to be certain that the correct temperatures are being reached.
Diet:
Feeding a poison dart frog can appear difficult, since they require extremely small food items. The actual feeding is not the hard part; finding the right types of food is. These frogs feed on the most miniscule of foods offered on the reptile market. Flightless fruit flies, termite larva, and pinhead to ¼ inch crickets are just some of the commercially offered foods. Many of these items can be found online and shipped right to your door. Some insect farms even offer fruit fly cultures so you can to grow your own supply of flightless fruit flies.
Water:
Humidity should be very high with 80-90% a good range to keep the cage in. To achieve this, you will need to mist the cage 2-3x a day. A glass lid instead of a screen lid, or simply covering a screen top with a towel, should be used to help keep the humidity levels up. If you don’t incorporate a pond into your vivarium, be sure to have a shallow dish from which your frogs can drink. Clean this every day. ALWAYS use filtered, dechlorinated water on all of your amphibian pets.
Maintenance:
It is important to mist dart frogs on a regular basis. Depending on your local environment, cage setup, and substrate you may have to mist as often as several times daily. Owners should also be wary of unfiltered tap water as it may contain substances harmful to your frogs. It is best to use filtered and dechlorinated water for misting and drinking. The enclosure should be spot cleaned as needed and should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected regularly to prevent mold from growing in the substrate. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to rinse the enclosure thoroughly after disinfecting. As always, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling your frogs or any cage accessories.
PLEASE do not ever release a tree frog or any reptile pet into the wild!!
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