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Temperature/Humidity:
The Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps) prefers a daytime temperature between 75º and 85º. A basking lamp should be used to maintain a local basking site temperature of 100º to 110º. Nighttime temperatures should drop to 65º and 75º therefore a night heat bulb might not be necessary. These lizards are naturally found in desert and dry forest regions, therefore the humidity in their captive habitat should kept at or near 40%.
Lighting:
Bearded Dragons are diurnal lizards (mainly active during the day) and require 10-12 hours of ultraviolet lighting during the day to maintain good health. Using a simple lamp timer will make maintaining an accurate schedule of light periods much easier. Please be sure to provide your dragon with either a UVB producing light fixture or allow it to gain UVB rays several times weekly from basking outside. UVB lighting is available in tubular fluorescent bulbs, compact fluorescent bulbs and mercury vapor bulbs. Both of the fluorescent type bulbs will generate the ultraviolet lighting required but they will not generate the basking temperatures necessary. The mercury vapor bulbs does an excellent job of providing both the ultraviolet lighting as well as the heating required for proper basking. Caution should be exercised when using the compact fluorescent bulbs however as there have been reports of eye damage when placed too close to the basking area.
Feeding/Watering:
Bearded dragons are omnivorous and their diet should consist of both vegetation as well as live insects. Baby dragons will eat more proteins (insects) but leafy green vegetables should be introduced early on and gradually increased as the lizard reaches adulthood. Likewise the amount of feeder insects should be gradually reduced as the dragon matures (see the “Feeding Dragons” section below). Red fruits and vegetables are great for shy eaters as reptiles are naturally attracted to the color red. Uneaten food should be removed from the dragon’s enclosure at the end of the day to prevent spoilage. Insects such as crickets, super worms, roaches and silk worms are all good live foods. Wax worms can be offered occasionally but they are high in fat so should not be given too often. Mealworms are also okay as a treat but should not be offered in large quantities.
Baby dragons require a good misting from a water spray bottle two or three times a day to prevent dehydration. If this is not possible, a shallow water dish can be left in the dragon’s cage (make sure it is shallow enough for the dragon to stand in it without drowning). Water should be changed daily. Adult dragons can benefit from a misting 3 times a week or even daily. When you see the dragon begin to lap up the water drops around their mouth, you can then gently squirt the water directly at their mouth. A soak in a shallow tub using luke warm water (around 80º) once every week or two is also beneficial.
Habitat/Housing:
Individual dragons can be maintained in a 35 to 50 gallon aquarium, a 40 gallon breeder tank is ideal. A screen lid is essential for proper ventilation. For multiple pets, increase habitat size accordingly to ensure each individual has plenty of space to move about and not interfere with tank mates. An under tank heater should be placed on the same end of the tank as the basking lamp if you live in a cooler climate. A shelter for hiding is a good idea, especially if multiple pets are in the same enclosure. Misting the habitat occasionally will help maintain proper humidity levels and allow for these semi arid lizards to rehydrate in a manner that is natural for them.
Substrate (Bedding):
For baby dragons, simply line the bottom of the cage with clean newspaper or paper towels and replace as needed. As the dragon gets bigger (6 to 8 months) you can switch to a more natural substrate such as children's play sand if you prefer. If concerned about impaction, you could use reptile carpet, newspaper or non adhesive shelf liner.
Two-to-three week old crickets (1/4 inch) should be offered 2 - 3 times a day. Offer only what the animal can eat at one feeding. The crickets should be dusted with a calcium supplement once a day. Every day offer a small amount of finely chopped greens. Do NOT feed large insects to small dragons, they may get "partial paralysis with hind leg extension." You should also offer a vitamin supplement once a week.
Three months to six months:
Three to four week old crickets (1/2 inch) should be offered twice a day. Insects should be dusted one feeding every day. Offer a dish of finely chopped greens (kale, mustard greens, collards, romaine) every day. You should also offer a vitamin supplement once a week.
Six months to one year:
Four to five week old crickets (3/4 to 1 inch) should be offered once every other day. Insects should be calcium dusted every other day. Offer chopped greens every day and you should also offer a vitamin supplement once a week.
Adults:
Adults should be offered four to six week old crickets 2 - 3 times weekly. Insects should be calcium dusted two feedings a week. Offer chopped greens and mixed vegetables every day. You should also offer a vitamin supplement once a week. During the breeding season, females should be offered a high quality diet rich in calcium and vitamin D3. Following egg-laying you can offer pinky mice 1 – 2 times a week.
It is critical that you feed all food insects on a quality diet, and to provide vitamin/mineral supplements. Inadequate diet and supplementation are the primary causes of rearing problems and high mortality rates among juveniles. Make sure to use a good calcium supplement such as Rep-cal. The vitamin supplement should not have vitamin A, too much of which can cause Hyper-vitamintosis. Vitamin supplements such as Rep-Cal’s Herptivite contains Beta Carotene instead which is converted by animals to Vitamin A only as needed. Dusting insects is easily accomplished by placing a small amount of supplement dust into a jar or plastic sandwich bag. Drop the insects in and gently shake the container till they are coated. Lack of vitamin D3 and calcium, as well as wrong calcium to phosphorus ratio (should be 2:1), may cause leg twitching, shakes, and partial paralysis. Excessive vitamin A may also cause similar symptoms.
It is recommended that you NOT feed insects you have caught in your house or yard, these may have come in contact with any number of poisons and remember... your dragon is what he eats
Bell Pepper
Blackberries
Blueberries
Butter worms
Cantaloupe
Chicory
Cilantro
Collard Greens
Cricket
Dandelion Greens
Endive
Escarole
Grapes
Hibiscus
Kale
Lettuce, Romaine
Mango
Mealworm
Mustard Greens
Okra
Radicchio
Raspberries
Silkworm
Strawberries
Super worms
Turnip Greens
Wax Worms
Zophobas Worms
Currently working on a complete Nutrition Content chart
Calcium Deficiency:
The first symptoms of calcium deficiency in juvenile bearded dragons is tectonic twitching otherwise known as the shakes. Other symptoms are soft jawbones and other neurological problems. To treat, increase the calcium supplement, and expose the bearded dragon to at least 30 minutes of sunlight daily.
Coccidia:
These protozoa is more likely if bearded dragons are kept with other lizard species. Bearded dragons will show signs of losing weight, loose and runny smelly stools. The only way to confirm is to have its stool examined by a veterinarian.
Egg-binding:
Factors that lead to egg binding include weakness from illness, dietary factors (calcium deficiency), low weight, obesity, and improper egg-laying site. You should diagnose the underlying cause and correct. A veterinarian may also administer vasotocin to induce egg-laying. In some cases a veterinarian will perform surgery to remove the eggs and save the animals life.
Gastroentric Infections:
If your bearded dragon shows a loss of appetite, weight loss, and listless behavior, accompanied by loose, discolored, and smelly stools, have a fecal exam done as soon as possible. Successful treatment is likely, if veterinary help is sought quickly.
Partial Paralysis associated with Hind Leg Extension:
Spastic hind leg extension my be caused by feeding large prey items to small bearded dragons. This will happen the following day after the feeding. In most cases the bearded dragon will die. Large prey items appear to affect the nervous system (spinal nerves). It maybe the prey item pushes against the spinal cord.
Respiratory Infections:
Prolonged exposure to temperatures that are marginally cool can result in respiratory infections. The most obvious symptoms are gaping, forced exhalation of air, puffing of throat, and a puffed up appearance of the body. In severe cases, mucus will accumulate in the mouth and may emerge from the nostrils. Keeping the bearded dragons at a daytime temperature in the upper 80's to low 90's F will allow them to fight off the infections. If symptoms persist, take the bearded dragon to a veterinarian to be injected with antibiotics. Be careful to not mistake the normal gaping behavior bearded dragons do when overheated
UVB Burns:
Make sure with UVB lighting, that you dont put it to close to your Bearded Dragon. They are capable of being burned by the UVB bulbs especially when they are young or the bulbs are new. Generally start with a new bulb about 18 inches away, and after a couple weeks, move the light to about 12 inches away.
This care sheet is designed to cover the basics of this animals needs for it to have a happy healthy life. There are many care sheets out there, and many animals may have different needs then what is listed here. Therefore we ask that you use this document as a guide, with the understanding that your animal may have differnt requirements then what is listed here
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