A basic staple of a Gothic wardrobe for women is the corset. A garment which has had books written on its history, structure and styles. I wish this to be just a basic introduction to the corset.
Where did the corset come from? That is hard to say. Below is a picture in reference to a statue of Jeanne Duchesse de Berry, 1385, which is thought to be the first corset of record.
Before the corset, gowns tailored with bodices were the forerunner of the garment that provided shape and support to women. These were termed Kirtle bodices. It became a separate garment in the 15th Century, commonly worn in the 16th Century, and later giving life to the modern day corset.
While the corset is a garment worn to mold and shape the torso of men and women for an aesthetic purpose, it is also used for medical reasons. Used to immobilize and protect the torso, especially those with spinal problems and internal injuries. However, if used incorrectly they also had a history of causing harm. Daily wear can crush the ribs and rearrange inner organs. However, as present use of the corset is more as a fashion accessory, there is little fear of this happening today.
A corset is typically constructed of a flexible material (cloth or leather) and is stiffened with the boning (called ribs or stays) inserted into channels of the garment. The boning most often used in the past was steel and whalebone. Today it is mostly spring or spiral steel and plastic, and held together by lacing, usually in the back. Many have a buttoned or hooked front opening called a busk. Once the corset is on, it can be adjusted via the lacing in the back. However, for those who do not have assistance with the back lacings, the hooks or buttons in the front were there to aid in the putting on and taking off the corset.
Today’s corset mimics the ones of the past, which were form fitted especially for the wearer. Present day corsets are less restraining, but still fit tightly, and are geared more for the masses. They have little or no effect on the shape of the wearer. Here is a picture of an earlier corset, note the built in curve of the waist.
There are two main types of corsets: Overbust encloses the torso, extending from just under the arms to the hips.
Underbust corsets start just under the breast and extend down to the hips.
The cost of the corset depends on what material is used, how many and what kind of stays are used. I have never seen a corset for less then $75.00 dollars and upwards to $500.00 dollars. You can spend as much as you want on a corset.
Let us touch on a little of the other clothing items most gothic fashion includes that are a little more friendly to our wallets.
Bodices: More of a vest with a corset built in, with front, back and side lacings, which make this bodice extremely adjustable for a more custom and comfortable fit. Average cost is $40.00 and up.
Waist Cincher: Short corset or wide belt used to shape the waist, hooks or laces in the front and/or back. A ribbon corset is a waist cincher made of ribbon. Average cost $40.00 and up.
I hope this information is useful to you. I wish to leave you with a few links that will explain more about the corset and shops were you might view them.
Information links:
Corset Heaven
History of Corsets
Laracorsets History of corsets
Mr. Pearl Article on Training
Corset Making
Venacadesign
Members Fitting
Absolutecorsets
Shopping:
Heavyred
Period Corsets
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